Tuesday 25th April 2006
Trek Day 2
Chisopani to Kutumsang
We slept soundly, once the noise of the wind generator, on the
roof of the lodge across the road, died down. I awoke a couple of
times to the sound of shouting in the distance. Apparently the soldiers
get a bit jittery at any movement during the night, and someone
had left their tent for pee. We were told that they have been known
to open fire on occasion! Fortunately we didn't need to get up in
the night.
The sun is up in an impossibly blue sky, and we can see the mountains
clearly as far as the Fish-Tail near Annapurna. Fantastic! As we
wait for our breakfast, the local people, and our trekking crew
are talking excitedly. It appears that the king has made more concessions,
and has promised to allow the assembly to re-convene. The demonstrators
have accepted this, and the strikes have been called off! This is
great news, and we are all very happy to hear that peace will return
to Nepal.
We
start to realise that we may be able to change our plans, and instead
of having to retrace our steps at the end of the trek, we may be
able to return by road from Dhunche, or Syabru Bensi. This would
give us extra time, and enable us to walk some way up the Langtang
valley as well as visiting Gosainkund Lake.
We discuss this with Nurbu, and come up with a new plan. Instead
of having to end the trek back where we started at Sundarijal, we
can now definitely reach the holy lake at Gosainkund. From there
we'll assess how much time we have left, and use it to trek up the
Langtang valley as far as possible. Then we'll descend to Syabru
Bensi, where we hope the bus service will now be operating. This
is more than we ever hoped for, and we're very happy at not having
to retrace our steps.
We become the proud owners of a dog; or rather a dog has adopted
us. We aren't sure where he's come from. We may have first seen
him at the start in Sundarijal, or maybe he was the dog that frightened
the goats at our first lunch stop. Either way, he starts to follow
us from Chisopani and he seems to know the way. He's a mongrel,
about the size as our own dog Chirri. His head is more like a Labrador
than a fox. His coat is light brown with a few white patches, and
he looks in quite good condition. He's an attractive dog, and most
importantly, has a good nature. Were overjoyed at having him along,
but a bit worried that his owner may be looking for him. He shows
us the correct path when we are unsure, and wards off local dogs
in the villages that we pass through. At every water source he drinks
enthusiastically, and keeps dashing off into the forest to try and
catch birds or rodents. He hasn't caught anything yet though.
Today's trek starts off on the jeep track along the ridge. We
pass a home for 'Women that have gone astray', and then start to
descend to a small ridge which leads us over and up the other side
of the valley. This part of the trek is beautiful. There are flowering
Rhododendrons all over the hillside and abundant bird-life. Once
we cross the valley, the path winds on a contour, gradually climbing
to a small tea-house where we take a rest. It's getting hot in the
sun, and we can see that we have a good deal of climbing still to
do before we reach our lunch stop.
The
Polish couple catch us up, and stop for a chat. I debate whether
to have a quick wash under the stand-pipe, but instead take some
photos of a young boy sharpening a large knife on a stone. In England
he most likely wouldn't be allowed to handle a knife at his age,
let alone sharpen it, but here he'll probably be using it today
to help the family reap their crops. Children have to grow up quickly
in these villages.
We climb on a good path which becomes quite steep just before
reaching the village of Chippling, situated on a narrow ridge. Here
we stop for lunch and meet up with all the other trekkers; the Poles,
and the two pairs of Israelis. The tea-house here has a close-cut
grassy lawn, where we have our lunch of fried potato slices, coleslaw,
cheese, and Tibetan bread. Our dog teases the owner's hound which
fortunately is chained up to a post. We are getting hot in the sun
and Liz gives some sun cream to one of the other trekkers because
she's forgotten to bring any.
We let lunch settle as much as possible, but we are both suffering
indigestion as we climb the next 250m. I think that we're nearly
at the top because I can see some houses ahead, but as I turn the
corner, I realise it's yet another false summit. The wave of disappointment
soon passes, as I resign myself to plodding on to the next house
at Thodang Dhanda, which thankfully is the true crest. There's a
mani-wall, prayer flags, and an attractive chorten here. There's
also a small tea-house where we stop for a drink. From here it's
all downhill to Gulphu Bhanjyang at 2150m.
The track goes through magnificent forests where the dog tries
his luck at a bit more bird hunting. He's probably regretting that
he failed to steal the food from the other dog at our lunch spot.
We reach a fork in the path where a new trail leads off on a contour
to the left instead of mounting a small rise on the ridge. We opt
for the easier contour but the dog, for once, gets it wrong and
scampers up along the ridge. We think this might be the last we
see of him but there's a joyful reunion fifteen minutes later, when
the paths rejoin. He's very pleased to see us. After all, he's invested
a whole day in us in the hope that we'll take pity and feed him;
which of course we will. This must be becoming increasingly important
to him because he's useless at catching birds!
We
walk through the centre of the cheerful and lively little village
of Gulphu. There's an interesting Gompa here which seems to have
tourist accommodation, and there's also a smart little health post.
The village main street, which is actually the only street, is charming.
We decide to stop here for a beer because, according to Nurbu, we
have another thirty minutes to climb to our campsite. We drink a
beer inside a small tea-house cum shop, and watch as people go about
their business in the street outside. The dog manages to squeeze
his way in, and sits under the table in the hope of getting a biscuit.
Our camp is just outside the Kutumsang Guest House, which is perched
in a flattish meadow a short way up the hillside. There is a stand
pipe where I wash my hair and a few clothes before we sit down to
a snack of spicy RaRa noodles. We've been going for nine hours today
although we've actually only walked for six of those. We've reached
2365m! The Israeli trekkers have passed us by, opting to stay at
a lodge further up the hillside, but the Poles haven't made it this
far. They were going quite slowly, and said farewell to us at the
lunch stop because they thought they mightn't see us again. We're
thinking of them and hope that they won't have to turn back.
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